M&Others

Fashion & Motherhood

Karolien De Clippel, Karen van Godtsenhoven

$110

Hardback

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English

Lannoo Publishers
01 April 2025

Individual designers; Fashion & textiles: design; Sociology: family & relationships

This book offers an in-depth exploration of the relationship between fashion and motherhood, a topic that is explored in detail for the first time. Mothers, mother figures, mentors and family ties are intimately intertwined with fashion history. Many designers reach back to the style of their mother's day, but mums themselves are also a big source of inspiration. Symbolic fashion mothers, such as Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet and Sonia Rykiel, made an artistic mark on the creations of their contemporaries and are still influencing present-day designers. From 1900 onward there was a growing appreciation of the cultural identity of mothers, both in fashion and in society. In 20th and 21st century fashion, this culminated in a veritable celebration of mothers and mother figures.

AUTHORS: Karolien De Clippel is the director of the Fashion Museum Hasselt. Karen Van Godtsenhoven is a freelance curator, PhD researcher UGent. Dries Debackere is a doctoral researcher at UGent. Barbara Baert is a professor of medieval art, iconology and art history KULeuven, Lydia Kamitzisis a freelance curator. Leen Kelchtermans is researcher at The Phoebus Foundation. Pauline Devriese is a curator for Fashion Museum Hasselt, Tirza Westland is collection assistant Kunstmuseum Den Haag, Francesca Granata is senior lecturer at Parsons School of Design, New York, Thebe Magugu is a fashion designer, Eve Demoen is curator for Fashion Museum Hasselt.

SELLING POINTS: .

The first-ever international book dedicated exclusively to motherhood in relation to fashion .

The use of iconic imagery enhances its visual appeal. Interviews with fashion designers offer valuable, contemporary insights on the subject .

From the Blessed Virgin, to contemporary fashion experiments that debunk stereotypes, to the testimonies of non-binary parents, surrogacy parents and adoptive parents, from Christian Dior's New Look to the designs of Jacquemus and the regal women who carry of South African Thebe Magugu: the mother figure as a source of inspiration and creativity in fashion is back from... never having left? .

Published to accompany the exhibition M/OTHERS at the Fashion museum Hasselt, Belgium, from 14 June 2024 to 5 January 2025

150 colour, 40 b/w illustrations

By: Karolien De Clippel, Karen van Godtsenhoven
Imprint: Lannoo Publishers
Country of Publication: Belgium
Dimensions: Height: 280mm, Width: 215mm, Spine: 23mm
Weight: 1.230kg
ISBN: 9789401425230
ISBN 10: 940142523X
Pages: 208
Publication Date: 01 April 2025
Audience: General/trade , ELT Advanced
Format: Hardback
Publisher's Status: Unspecified

Preface Karolien De Clippel 7 1. Matrescence “In this condition” 15 Early modern mothers-to-be in word and image Leen Kelchtermans Fashionably pregnant in the late nineteenth century 25 Dries Debackere 2. Affiliative Fashion Madeleine Vionnet: a fashion matrix 43 Lydia Kamitsis Mother-daughter transmission in fashion creation 59 Jeanne Lanvin and Sonia Rykiel Karen Van Godtsenhoven 3. Motherhood as Muse Interview Ann Demeulemeester 87 Interview Victor Robyn 91 Interview Meryll Rogge 95 4. Mother as Muse Mother as muse: the power of memory in the work of 103 Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent Eve Demoen Testimony: Valérie Jacquemus 120 Simon Porte Jacquemus Testimony: Matiego Magugu 122 Thebe Magugu Interview Thebe Magugu 125 5. Mothers & Monsters Testimony: Michèle Lamy 138 Dan Thawley Fashioning the pregnant body: 143 gynophobia and experimental fashion from the 1980s onwards Francesca Granata Marsh – Mother – Membrane. Small cosmogony 157 Barbara Baert 6. M&Others Fashion & motherhood at Hasselt Fashion Museum 169 The exhibition Notes 203

Karolien De Clippel is the director of the Fashion Museum Hasselt. Karen Van Godtsenhoven is a freelance curator, PhD researcher UGent. Dries Debackere is a doctoral researcher at UGent. Barbara Baert is a professor of medieval art, iconology and art history KULeuven, Lydia Kamitzisis a freelance curator. Leen Kelchtermans is researcher at The Phoebus Foundation. Pauline Devriese is a curator for Fashion Museum Hasselt, Tirza Westland is collection assistant Kunstmuseum Den Haag, Francesca Granata is senior lecturer at Parsons School of Design, New York, Thebe Magugu is a fashion designer, Eve Demoen is curator for Fashion Museum Hasselt.

Reviews for M&Others: Fashion & Motherhood

""...explores fashion through the rarely examined viewpoint of mother figures in all their forms....unpack[s] the challenge of fashion-making and having a family. Within fashion museology, there has been surprisingly little research on the topic."" -Exhibition review, Wallpaper*