The time span covered by The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress starts in the nineteenth century, with the aftermath of the consumers’ revolution, and reaches all the way to the present. The fashion and garment industries have been international from the beginning and, as such, this volume looks at the history of fashion and dress through the lenses of both international and global history. Because fashion is also a multifaceted subject with humanagency at its core, at the confluence of thematerial (fabrics, clothing, dyes, tools, and machines) and the immaterial (savoir-faire, identities, images, and brands), this volume adopts a transdisciplinary perspective, opening its pages to researchers from a variety of complementary fields.
The chapters in this volume are organized based on their relationship to five fields of study: economics and commerce, politics, business, identities, and historical sources.
Paying particular attention to change, the book goes beyond the great fashion capitals and well-known fashion centers and points to the broader geographies of fashion. Particular geographical areas focus on the emergence of new fashion systems and business models, whether they be in Sweden, Bangladesh, or Spain, or on the African continent, considered to be the “new frontier” of the industry.
Covering myriad aspects of the subject this is the perfect companion for all those interested in history of dress and fashion in the modern world.
Table of Contents Introduction Authors: POUILLARD, Véronique & Vincent DUBÉ-SENÉCAL Part I – Manufacturing and Materiality 1. The Sewing Machine Author: GODLEY, Andrew 2. The Chain of Production, the Chains of Production (1800-2020) Author: MILLET, Audrey 3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex Author: BLASZCZYK, Regina Lee 4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric Author: GROSFILLEY, Anne 5. Swedish Splendor behind the Scenes Author: EIDE, Hanne 6. Mending and Repairing Author: KÖNIG, Anna Part II – The Politics of Fashion and Dress 7. National and Regional Dress Authors: VAN HAAFTEN, Jennifer & Annette LYNCH 8. Palestinian Labor and Embroidery in the Diaspora Author: ABOU-HODEIB, Toufoul 9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th and 20th Century Black American Fashion Designers Author: WAY, Elizabeth 10. Fashion and Feminism Author: WALLENBERG, Louise 11. Fascism for Export: Fashion in the 1930s in Italy and Beyond Author: PAULICELLI, Eugenia 12. Fashion and Diplomacy Authors: DUBÉ-SENÉCAL, Vincent & Madeleine GOUBAU Part III – Fashion as Business 13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender and Artificial Intelligence Authors: VAN BARNEVELD, Lisa & Ben WUBS 14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform Authors: MIRANDA, José Antonio & Alba ROLDÁN 15. Bangladesh Ready-Made Garment (RMG) Industry Author: RAHMAN, Shahidur 16. Fashioning a Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identity at African Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN) Author: OMOYELE, Tolulope 17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, Exhibitions and Fashion Branding Author: BELFANTI, Marco 18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, From International to Post-Colonial Contexts Author: POUILLARD, Véronique 19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism Author: VON WACHENFELDT, Paula Part IV – The Body and the Self 20. From Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 to Dior Air Jordan 1 Author: WILLIAMS, Jean 21. Mourning Dress Author: BASS-KRUEGER, Maude 22. Men of Fashion: 1800–2020 Author: MCNEIL, Peter 23. Fashion and Eroticism Author: STEELE, Valerie 24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media Author: SARK, Katrina 25. Queer Style Author: GECZY, Adam & Vicki KARAMINAS 26. Washing Clothes Authors: KLEPP, Ingun Grimstad & Kirsi LAITALA 27. The Cultural Economies of Secondhand Clothes Author: LE ZOTTE, Jennifer Part V – Sources for the History of Fashion and Dress 28. Fashion at Your Fingertips: Digital Resources for Fashion and Dress Research Author: TRIVETTE, Karen Jamison Index
Véronique Pouillard is a professor of international history at the University of Oslo (Norway). She has published Paris to New York, The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century (2021). She leads the research project ERC CoG CREATIVE IPR, The History of Intellectual Property in the Creative Industries (2018-2025). Vincent Dubé-Senécal is a governance advisor at the Collège de Rosemont (Montréal, Québec). He is a Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions (MSCA) Alumni and the author of La mode française. Vecteur d’influence aux États-Unis (1946-1960) (2020). His research interests are the history of international relations, fashion, and diplomacy.
