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Creating the Perfect Form

How to Interpret and Display Historic Dress

Ms Janet Wood

$150

Hardback

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English
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
25 July 2024
How can the cut of a 19th century gown control its shape? Can you re-create a historic profile from a contemporary mannequin? How can paintings help you analyse historic silhouettes and the corsets and petticoats worn underneath?

Conservation and historic dress display specialist Janet Wood will help you answer all these questions. You'll learn how historic garments can be safely handled and shown to best effect, with insight into the characteristic features of each piece and how to translate them from the garment to a display support.

Concentrating on Western women's wear from 1750–1950, and with over 250 colour images, plus drawings and charts, you’ll learn how to interpret an individual garment’s display needs and create safe, appropriate display forms.
By:  
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Country of Publication:   United Kingdom
Dimensions:   Height: 270mm,  Width: 210mm, 
ISBN:   9781350328655
ISBN 10:   1350328650
Pages:   192
Publication Date:  
Audience:   College/higher education ,  Primary
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Introduction 1. Assessing the Condition of a Garment 2. Date Paintings Cartoons Fashion plates Photographs Newspapers, magazines and other literary sources Books Technical developments and dressmaking techniques Fabrics Alterations Media Summary 3. Garment Cut and its Relationship to Underwear Research system Corset timeline 18th century 1800 – 1820 1820 – 1830 1830 – 1840 1840 – 1850 1850 – 1860 1860 – 1870 1870 – 1890 1870 – 1880 1880 – 1890 1890 – 1900 1900 – 1910 1910 – 1920 1920s 1930s 1940s 1950s Summary 4. Storyboards & Silhouettes How to use storyboards to date a garment Silhouette timeline How to relate the construction of a garment to the timeline silhouettes Summary 5. Measurements Descriptions of the horizontal body measurements Descriptions of the vertical body measurements The importance of the relationship between garment measurements Comparing garment measurements to a body, mannequin or bust form Using a measurement chart Tools for measuring Tape measures and their uses Measuring historic garments Tips for accurate measuring Summary 6. Selecting & Preparing a Mannequin or Bust Form Guidelines Bust form or mannequin Preparing a bust form or mannequin Tools for padding mannequins and bust forms Applying polyester wadding Bust form Mannequin Needles Step-by-step process for customizing a bust form Top covers Summary 7. Patterns &Toiles The straight grain Locating the straight grain position on historic garments Tools for taking a pattern from a garment Three methods for creating patterns for toiles Making a pattern for a toile ‘Join the dots’ method ‘Draping’ method Tissue paper templates Constructing the toile Summary 8. Petticoats, Arms & Finishing Touches Base petticoat Base petticoat method Net petticoats Net petticoat method 18th century pannier petticoat Top petticoats Sleeve supports – Arms Summary and finishing touches Conclusion Bibliography Glossary Garment measuring chart Basic arm patterns Padding diagram

Janet Wood is a freelance consultant on large exhibitions in major museums and historic properties, including Chatsworth House and the Museum of London. She was previously a fashion designer working with Thea Porter, Monsoon and freelance (1971-90), and a textile conservator with Historic Royal Palaces (1992–2012).

Reviews for Creating the Perfect Form: How to Interpret and Display Historic Dress

With concise language and simple visual guides, Janet Wood takes practitioners working with textiles and dress on a journey that demystifies and makes accessible effective methods for the interpretation and display of garments. Through appreciation for the fall of a sleeve, the heft of a box pleat and a rigorous analysis of underpinning, Wood deftly and creatively guides the novice (with reminders for the skilled) through garment mounting solutions, bringing clothes to life in a sympathetic way. * Dr Ben Whyman, Manager, Centre for Fashion Curation, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, London, UK * Full of insight and practical guidance expressed clearly and visually, I can’t imagine a museum curator with a dress collection or a conservator who works with garments who would not want this on their bookshelves. * Philip Warren, Chair of the Costume UK Costume Society, UK * Anyone who’s had the pleasure of working with Janet Wood while she brings historic clothing back to life with a light and seemingly magic touch will cheer the fact she’s now shared her expertise in a book. Janet’s decades of experience are distilled into an easy-to-use reference guide that makes her wealth of knowledge widely available. The practical skills, tips and tricks of costume mounting processes explained in Creating the Perfect Form make it an essential handbook for putting dress on display beautifully. * Dr Hilary Davidson, Associate Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA * Janet Wood has managed to skilfully combine every bit of her extensive experience as a fashion designer, pattern cutter, costume conservator and specialist historic costume mounter into one beautifully simple, invaluable book. I cannot recommend this book highly enough and would suggest every student and professional in the field has their own reference copy. * Zenzie Tinker ACR, Zenzie Tinker Conservation, Brighton, UK *


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