How did ordinary men and women dress in early modern Europe? What fabrics and garments formed the essential elements of fashion for artisans and shopkeepers? Did they rely on affordable alternatives to the silks, jewellery, and decorations favoured by the wealthy elite? Or did those with modest means find innovative ways to express their fashion sense?
This book provides new perspectives on early modern clothing and fashion history by investigating the consumption and meaning of fashionable clothing and accessories among the 'popular' classes. Through a close examination of the materials, craftsmanship and cultural significance of fashion items owned by and available to a broad group of consumers, it challenges conventional assumptions that the everyday dress of ordinary families was limited to a narrow selection of garments made of coarse textiles, often produced at home and resistant to change.
Edited by:
Paula Hohti
Imprint: Manchester University Press
Country of Publication: United Kingdom
Dimensions:
Height: 240mm,
Width: 170mm,
Spine: 29mm
Weight: 997g
ISBN: 9781526164650
ISBN 10: 1526164655
Series: Studies in Design and Material Culture
Pages: 376
Publication Date: 01 February 2025
Audience:
General/trade
,
College/higher education
,
Professional and scholarly
,
ELT Advanced
,
Primary
Format: Hardback
Publisher's Status: Forthcoming
Introduction – Paula Hohti Part I: Innovation and Imitation 1 Transformations in textiles, 1500–1750 – John Styles 2 Ribbon culture in early modern Italy – Andrea Caracausi Experiment in focus I: making silk – Paula Hohti, Miriam Pugliese Experiment in focus II: knitted stockings – Piia Lempiäinen and Paula Hohti 3 Imitation in early modern artisan fashion –Sophie Pitman Experiment in focus III: imitation of fur – Sophie Pitman Experiment in focus IV: stamped mock velvet doublet – Sophie Pitman Experiment in focus V: digital doublet: hidden layers – Maarit Kalmakurki Part II: Adornment and display 4 Né vera né falsa: non-elite ownership of pearls in early modern Italy – Michele Nicole Robinson Experiment in focus VI: imitation of amber and pearls – Michele Nicole Robinson 5 Adorning the everyday: male artisan jewellery in early modern England – Natasha Awais-Dean 6 Dressed to kill: arms, armour and protective attire in Renaissance men’s middle- and lower-class dress – Victoria Bartels Experiment in focus VII: tailor-made male doublet: embodied experience – Valerio Zanetti Part III: Status and credibility 7 The Clothing of the contadina: women’s work, leisure and morality, 1550–1650 – Elizabeth Currie and Jordan Mitchell-King Experiment in focus VIII: lace – Michele Nicole Robinson 8 Practical, professional, and prosperous: dressing artisans and small shopkeepers in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century Denmark – Anne-Kristine Sindvald Larsen Experiment in focus IX: caring for clothes – Anne-Kristine Sindvald Larsen 9 The Dissemination of fashion: consumption habits and non-essential textile in early modern Italian artisan inventories – Stefania Montemezzo 10 Artisan attire and the politics of dress in seventeenth century Tallinn – Astrid Wendel-Hansen Experiment in focus X: colour – Paula Hohti Conclusion – Paula Hohti Index -- .
Paula Hohti is Professor of History of Art and Culture at Aalto University.